Harissa: What It Is, How to Use It and Substitutes
What is harissa?
To make harissa, dried red chillies are soaked and ground with garlic, salt, olive oil and spices to a paste. Ground coriander and caraway are typical in Tunisia, and some families add cumin or a little dried mint. In Tunisia the chillies are traditionally dried in the sun and the paste is made as a store for the whole year. In 2022 UNESCO recognised Tunisian harissa, together with the knowledge and customs surrounding its preparation, as intangible cultural heritage. Take care when searching for recipes: in Armenia, a porridge of wheat and meat is also called harissa, and it has nothing to do with the chilli paste. If you want to make the paste yourself, you will find a recipe for Tunisian Harissa here.
Flavour and uses
Besides heat, harissa brings plenty of flavour. Coriander and caraway give an earthy note, while garlic and oil round it off. In Tunisia it is on the table at almost every meal, often covered with olive oil as a dip for bread. In Algeria it colours and seasons the lamb sausages Merguez. A spoonful belongs in the chickpea soup Lablabi and in the sauce for couscous. Shakshuka, fried potatoes and marinades for chicken also take harissa well. Stir it into hot oil early on and it releases more flavour. For a milder dip, mix one teaspoon into three tablespoons of yoghurt.
Buying harissa: what to look for
Harissa comes in tubes, tins and jars in supermarkets, and is cheaper and available in more varieties at Middle Eastern, North African and Turkish grocers or online. Tunisian brands in tubes are usually very hot. Check that chilli is first on the ingredients list and that little or no starch, sugar or tomato purée has been added. Rose harissa contains dried rose petals and tastes milder and more floral. Dry harissa spice blends need to be mixed with oil and water yourself.
Storage and shelf life
Opened tubes and jars belong in the fridge. Smooth the surface in the jar and cover it with a thin layer of olive oil, and the paste will keep for four to six weeks. Homemade harissa keeps for about two weeks under a layer of oil. Always use a clean spoon, or it will go mouldy sooner.
What can you use instead of harissa?
For 1 tbsp harissa, mix 2 tsp sambal oelek with 1 tsp sweet paprika, ¼ tsp each of ground caraway and coriander, a small crushed garlic clove and 1 tsp olive oil. If you like it smokier, use smoked paprika. Ajvar with a pinch of chilli is milder and suits children. Chilli flakes on their own only replace the heat, not the flavour.
